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Fireplace Services

Fireplace Conversion: Wood to Gas and Beyond

Converting a fireplace is a choice between three quite different routes, not one job. Which one your house allows depends on the firebox, the flue and where the gas is — and picking the wrong one is expensive. This page is here to help you choose before anyone quotes.

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Choose the route before you buy

Technician brushing and vacuuming a louvered factory-built fireplace with a stacked-stone surround
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Almost everyone who calls about converting a fireplace starts in the same place: the fireplace is never used, hauling firewood in a humid climate has lost its appeal, and something that lights with a switch sounds better. From there the question is which conversion, and that is decided by the building, not by preference.

The four routes, side by side

What each conversion involves
RouteWhat is installedChimney workHeat outputSuits
Gas log setBurner, pan and ceramic logs in your existing fireboxFlue must be sound and clear; damper locked open for a vented setLow — most heat goes up the flueLook and ambience, occasional use
Gas insertA sealed unit slid into the fireplace openingA liner runs the full flue lengthHigh — a sealed unit puts heat into the roomReal heat from an existing masonry fireplace
Built-in gas fireplaceThe old firebox comes out; a new appliance and vent go inNew venting, often direct-vent through a wallHigh and controllableRemodels, new wall positions, modern linear looks
ElectricAn electric firebox or insert in the openingNone — the flue is sealed off insteadLow, and it is resistance heatNo gas available, condos, rentals, HOA restrictions
Technician fitting the front of a linear fireplace set into a tiled wall in a bright living room

The detail for each is on its own page: fitting a gas log set, fitting a gas insert, installing a built-in gas unit and electric fireplace work. This page is about getting you to the right one.

What has to be checked first

A conversion is one of the few fireplace jobs where the inspection genuinely comes before the quote. Converting a chimney that turns out to be unlined, cracked or blocked means paying twice.

Established before a route is recommended

  • Masonry fireplace or factory-built unit — the rating plate decides what may be fitted
  • Firebox dimensions at the front, back and opening
  • Flue size, material and condition along its full length
  • Whether the damper can be locked open, or has to be for a vented appliance
  • Smoke chamber and throat condition, since a gas insert liner has to pass through them
  • Gas availability: existing line, capped stub, or nothing at all
  • Natural gas or propane, and the supply pressure available
  • Power at the fireplace, needed for electronic ignition, a blower or an electric unit
  • Hearth extension and clearances to a combustible mantel or surround
  • HOA or condo rules, which in parts of Central Florida restrict what may be fitted

Where the flue's condition is the open question, a camera inspection answers it properly rather than by assumption. That matters most before an insert, because the liner has to physically pass down the flue.

A chimney that has sat unused is not a clean slate

A flue nobody has looked into for a decade tends to hold nesting material, debris and sometimes a fallen tile. Converting to gas does not make that irrelevant: a vented log set and a gas insert both depend on the chimney working. The flue gets swept and checked as part of the conversion, not skipped because there will be no more wood smoke.

Choosing between the gas routes

What people actually want, and what fits it

  1. 01“I just want it to look like a fire”

    What you may notice
    The fireplace is decorative. It will run on a handful of evenings between December and February.
    How it’s confirmed
    A vented log set in the existing firebox. Lowest cost, least disruption, closest to the look of a wood fire.
    “I just want it to look like a fire”: repair options
  2. 02“I want the room to actually get warm”

    What you may notice
    You want to heat a living room on cold mornings rather than watch flames.
    How it’s confirmed
    A gas insert with a liner. A sealed unit keeps the heat in the room instead of sending it up the chimney.
    “I want the room to actually get warm”: repair options
  3. 03“I want a modern linear fireplace”

    What you may notice
    A wide, low glass opening set into a tiled or panelled wall, usually as part of a remodel.
    How it’s confirmed
    A built-in direct-vent appliance. The existing firebox comes out and the new unit vents through a wall or roof.
    “I want a modern linear fireplace”: repair options
  4. 04“There is no gas on my street”

    What you may notice
    No meter, and no tank on the property.
    How it’s confirmed
    Either propane with a tank, or electric. Which makes sense depends on how much you will use it and whether a tank can be sited.
    “There is no gas on my street”: repair options
  5. 05“The chimney itself is in poor shape”

    What you may notice
    A camera scan or inspection has found cracked tiles, an unlined flue or a failed factory-built system.
    How it’s confirmed
    Either reline as part of the conversion, or go direct-vent and stop using the old flue. The second is often cheaper on a badly damaged chimney.
    “The chimney itself is in poor shape”: repair options
  6. 06“I rent it out, or the HOA has rules”

    What you may notice
    A short-term rental, a condo, or a community with written restrictions.
    How it’s confirmed
    Electric removes the fuel question entirely and is the usual answer where gas is not permitted. Check the rules before buying anything.
    “I rent it out, or the HOA has rules”: repair options

The gas supply question

Roughly half the conversions we are asked about need gas brought to the fireplace, because open wood fireplaces were rarely built with a supply. That work is a job in its own right and is covered on our page about getting gas to the fireplace.

One thing worth deciding early: size the line for what you might eventually want, not only for what you are fitting now. A line sized for a log set will starve an insert later, and revisiting the pipe run after the wall has been finished is the expensive way to find that out.

Converting the other way

Not every conversion is wood to gas, though that is the great majority in Central Florida.

  • Gas back to wood. Occasionally asked for in older homes. It means removing the gas appliance, capping the supply properly and proving the flue is fit for solid fuel — which is a higher bar than it was for gas. Frequently the chimney is the reason it will not work.
  • Gas to electric. Common in condos and rentals where the gas appliance has failed and replacing it is not worth it. The supply is capped and the opening takes an electric unit.
  • Wood to electric. The simplest route when there is no gas and no appetite for a tank. The flue is sealed and the chimney still needs a cap so it does not become a rainwater channel.
  • Open wood firebox to a wood insert. Not a fuel conversion, but the same decision structure: a sealed appliance with a liner, far more efficient than an open fire. Rare here, given the climate.

Sealing a flue is not the same as forgetting it

When a chimney stops being used, it still sits out in the weather. It needs a cap, sound flashing and a crown that sheds water, or it quietly turns into a leak path into the wall. An unused chimney with a failed crown causes just as much damage as a used one.

What conversion day looks like

  1. Assess and decide

    Firebox, flue, gas availability and power, measured and checked. The route is agreed with you at this point, before anything is ordered.

  2. Free estimate for the route you choose

    Quoted per route, so you can see what a log set costs against an insert rather than being handed one number.

  3. Clean the system

    A full sweep of the firebox and flue. Years of creosote above a burner that will now run for hours is not something to leave in place.

  4. Any chimney repairs first

    Liner, crown, cap or damper work happens before the appliance goes in. Doing it afterwards means taking the new unit back out.

  5. Gas or power to the fireplace

    The line is run, valved and pressure tested, or the circuit is confirmed for an electric unit.

  6. Fit and commission

    Appliance installed, connections leak-checked, the unit run through a full cycle and watched, and the controls and shut-off shown to you.

Conversions in Central Florida homes

Two local patterns shape most of these jobs. The first is the factory-built fireplace fitted through the 1980s and 1990s in tract housing across Orange, Seminole and Osceola counties: a metal firebox with refractory panels in a framed chase. Those units are listed for specific appliances, and plenty are now beyond the point where a conversion makes sense — prefab fireplace replacement covers that case.

The second is usage. A Central Florida fireplace might run a dozen times a year. That genuinely changes the maths: an insert that would pay for itself in heating savings up north will not here, which is why the log set is the most common conversion in this market and why it is worth being honest about before anyone spends on something larger.

Conversions are carried out across Orlando, Winter Park, Lake Nona, Kissimmee, Oviedo, Clermont and the rest of the service area. Estimates are free and cover each viable route, not just one.

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FAQ

Fireplace Conversion: common questions

Straight answers. If yours isn’t here, send it with an estimate request and we’ll answer it directly.

How much disruption is converting a wood fireplace to gas?

It depends entirely on the route. A log set is largely a day in the firebox. An insert adds a liner down the full flue. A built-in unit means removing the old firebox and creating a new vent path, which is remodel-scale work. That is why the route is decided before anything is quoted.

Do I still need the chimney swept if I am converting to gas?

Yes. A vented log set and a gas insert both rely on the chimney, and years of creosote above a burner that will run for hours is a bad combination. Even where the flue is being sealed off for an electric unit, the firebox gets cleaned out first.

Can any wood-burning fireplace be converted to gas?

Most masonry fireplaces can, if the flue is sound and gas can be brought to them. Factory-built units are the exception: many are listed only for specific appliances and some for none at all. The rating plate inside the firebox decides it, which is why it gets read before anything is ordered.

Is a gas insert or a gas log set better?

They answer different questions. A log set is about how it looks and is far cheaper to fit. An insert is a sealed appliance that actually heats the room, and costs correspondingly more because of the liner and the unit. In a climate where the fireplace runs a dozen evenings a year, most people are buying the look.

Can I convert my fireplace if there is no gas line?

Yes, but the line becomes part of the job. Natural gas depends on the utility having mains in your street; otherwise it means a propane tank. Where neither works, electric is the practical route. Size any new line for what you might want later, not only for what you are fitting now.

Will converting to gas fix a fireplace that smokes?

Not by itself, and this is a common misconception. A vented gas appliance still depends on the chimney drawing, so a draft problem follows you across the conversion. Find out why it smokes first — that is covered on fireplace draft repair.

Can a gas fireplace be converted back to wood?

Sometimes, but it is a higher bar than going the other way. The gas appliance comes out, the supply is capped properly, and the flue has to be proved fit for solid fuel — which is a stricter standard than it was for gas. Often the chimney is the reason it cannot be done.

Next step

Talk to us about fireplace conversion

Describe what you’re seeing and where the home is. We’ll explain the next step before anything is scheduled.

  1. 1Tell us the symptom
  2. 2We inspect and explain
  3. 3You approve the plan first